angelairparts

Parts in the pipeline.

Fri, 24 Jul 2026 14:29:58 GMT

Parts Due in or yet to be assessed or checked.

If you cannot see the part you are looking for please contact us directly as we do have many many parts for sale on other platforms .

�� Good / Excellent Condition

Gamo PR-45 (2004) .177 Very good original condition.

Webley & Scott Junior Slant Grip (1958–1973) .177 Very good original condition.
Webley & Scott Senior Slant Grip (1935–1964) .177 Very good original condition
Webley & Scott Premier Slant Grip (1964–1975) .177 Very good original condition
Webley & Scott Premier MK2 Slant Grip (1975–1977) .22 Very good original condition
Webley & Scott MK1 Straight Grip (1924–1935) .177 Very good renovated condition
Webley & Scott MK1 Straight Grip (1924–1935) .22 Very good original condition
Webley & Scott MK1 Slant Grip (1935–1939) .22 Very good original condition
Webley & Scott MK1 Slant Grip (1945–1964) .177 Very good original condition.

�� Fair / Usable Condition

No items listed.

�� Poor Condition / Likely Limited Parts Only

Wischo (BSF) Break Barrel Pistol .177 Poor condition.

T.J. Harrington "The Gat Gun" (Early) .177 Poor cosmetic condition.

T.J. Harrington "The Gat Gun" (Early) .177 Very poor condition.

⚙️ Partial / Salvage Pieces

No Items Listed.

If you cannot see the part you are looking for please contact us directly as we do have many many parts for sale on other platforms.

A Beginner's Guide to Home Cold Bluing Air Guns.

Tue, 21 Jul 2026 09:18:34 GMT

Cold bluing is a simple and cost-effective way to restore the appearance of worn steel parts on air rifles and air pistols. While it will not be as durable as a professional hot-blued finish, it can produce excellent results when applied carefully and patiently.

Items You'll Need

Cold bluing solution or gel.
Degreaser (acetone works well).
Fine wire wool (0000 grade).
Clean cloths or paper towels.
Nitrile gloves.
Rust and blue remover (optional).
Air gun or gun oil.
Fine abrasive paper (240–1200 grit).

Step 1 – Prepare the Metal

Remove the existing finish using fine abrasive paper. If the metal has scratches or heavy corrosion, start with around 240-grit paper and gradually work up through finer grades, finishing with 600 to 1200 grit.

Sand lengthways along the metal wherever possible. This produces a smoother, more traditional finish and helps avoid visible sanding marks. Ensure all rust, pitting residue, and old bluing have been removed before moving on.

Step 2 – Degrease Thoroughly

Using acetone and clean paper towels, wipe the bare metal until no dirt, oil, or dark residue remains. Any grease left on the surface can prevent the bluing solution from working properly.

Step 3 – Warm the Metal

Gently warm the metal using an oven, heat gun, or hair dryer until it feels hot to the touch but not excessively hot.

Warming the metal helps the bluing solution react more evenly and can improve the final finish.

Step 4 – Final Clean

Give the warmed metal one final wipe with acetone to remove any fingerprints, dust, or contamination that may have appeared during handling.

Step 5 – Apply the Bluing Solution

Pour a small amount of cold bluing solution into a separate clean container. Never dip applicators directly into the original bottle, as contamination can reduce the effectiveness of the product.

Using a cotton swab, cotton pad, or clean applicator, apply an even coat over the metal surface.

Step 6 – Allow the Reaction to Work

Leave the solution on the metal for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically between one and three minutes.

A grey or dark residue may appear on the surface. Once the reaction is complete, gently rub the metal with 0000-grade wire wool to smooth the finish. For a deeper colour, several light applications are usually better than one heavy application.

Step 7 – Neutralise and Dry

Rinse the metal thoroughly with cold water to stop the chemical reaction.

Dry the surface completely using clean paper towels or a lint-free cloth. Once dry, lightly buff the metal with 0000-grade wire wool to remove any haze or uneven residue.

Step 8 – Oil the Finish

When you are satisfied with the colour and appearance, generously coat the metal with air gun or gun oil.

Allow the oil to soak into the newly blued surface overnight. The following day, wipe away any excess oil with a clean cloth.

This final step helps protect the finish and improves its durability.

Safety Notes

Cold bluing products contain chemicals that can be harmful if used incorrectly.

Always work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
Wear nitrile gloves and safety goggles at all times.
Avoid skin and eye contact with the solution.
Keep products away from children and pets.
Protect work surfaces from spills by using a disposable, non-absorbent covering.
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions supplied with your chosen bluing product.

Final Thoughts

Cold bluing is an excellent skill for collectors, restorers, and enthusiasts who want to improve the appearance of vintage air guns. The key to success is preparation. Taking extra time to remove rust, polish the metal, and thoroughly degrease the surface will usually have a greater impact on the final result than the bluing solution itself.

Remember, patience produces the best finish.

Renovating Wooden Components.

Fri, 10 Jul 2026 12:21:41 GMT

A Beginner's Guide to Renovating Wooden Air Rifle and Air Pistol Stocks.

Wooden stocks and grips are among the most attractive features of traditional air rifles and air pistols. Over time, however, regular handling, storage conditions, and general use can leave the wood looking worn, scratched, or faded. Fortunately, restoring a wooden stock or grip is a straightforward project that can dramatically improve both appearance and protection.

What You'll Need.

>Sandpaper (120, 240, and 400 grit)

>Lint-free cloths

>Finishing oil (such as Tru-Oil or Danish Oil)

>Fine steel wool (0000 grade)

>Screwdrivers

>Wood stain (optional)

Step 1: Remove and Inspect.

Ensure the airgun is unloaded and safe before removing the stock or grips. Check for scratches, dents, cracks, and signs of wear before starting.

Step 2: Clean the Surface.

Remove dirt, grease, and old residues using a clean cloth. This allows you to properly assess the condition of the wood before refinishing.

Step 3: Repair Dents.

Minor dents can often be raised using a damp cloth and a warm iron. Deep damage may require wood filler or more extensive repair work.

Step 4: Sand Carefully.

Sand with the grain to remove the old finish and smooth imperfections, start with the courser grade and move onto finer grades until you achieve the finish you are looking for. Take extra care around checkering, sharp edges, and decorative details.

Step 5: Apply Stain (Optional).

If you wish to alter or restore the wood's colour, apply a suitable wood stain and allow it to dry fully before finishing.

Step 6: Apply the Finish.

Apply several thin coats of stock oil, allowing each coat to dry before lightly buffing with fine steel wool. Multiple light coats produce a far better finish than one heavy application.

Step 7: Reassemble and Protect.

Once fully cured, reassemble the stock or grips and give the wood a final buff. Regular cleaning and occasional re-oiling will help maintain the finish for years to come.

Final Thoughts.

Renovating a wooden air rifle stock or air pistol grip is an enjoyable and rewarding project for beginners. With a little patience and the right materials, even tired-looking wood can be restored to a finish that looks great and provides lasting protection against everyday wear. Just one cautionary thought don't over do it, there are many renovated stocks/guns on the market that don't sell as buyers can be sceptical as to what work has been done, or covered up!

5 Common Problems

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:05:16 GMT

5 Common Problems Found in Vintage Spring-Powered Air Rifles and Pistols

For collectors and restorers, vintage spring-powered air rifles and pistols represent more than just shooting equipment—they are pieces of engineering history. Whether you own a well-used workshop find or a cherished family heirloom, age inevitably takes its toll on mechanical components. Understanding the most common faults can help preserve both the performance and historical value of these classic airguns.

1. Deteriorated Piston Seals.

One of the most frequent issues encountered during restoration is a worn or hardened piston seal. Many vintage airguns used leather seals, which can dry out and lose their ability to create an effective air seal.

What to Look For:

>Reduced power output

>Inconsistent firing behaviour

>Difficulty maintaining compression

Restoration Tips:

Inspect the piston seal during disassembly. Leather seals can sometimes be revived through careful cleaning and reconditioning, while badly damaged seals may require replacement. Preserving original components where possible is often preferred by collectors, provided safe and reliable operation can be maintained.

2. Weak or Damaged Mainsprings.

After decades of use, storage, and repeated compression cycles, mainsprings can become weakened, distorted, or broken. A tired spring can significantly affect an airgun's performance.

What to Look For:

>Noticeable loss of power

>Excessive vibration during firing

>Unusual noises from the action

Restoration Tips:

Carefully inspect the spring for kinks, cracks, or uneven wear. When replacement is necessary, choose a spring that closely matches the original specifications to maintain the rifle or pistol's intended characteristics and collector value.

3. Dried Lubricants and Internal Corrosion.

Many vintage airguns arrive at the workbench with decades-old grease that has hardened into a sticky residue. Combined with moisture exposure, this can lead to internal corrosion and rough operation.

What to Look For:

>Stiff cocking action

>Rough firing cycle

>Visible rust on internal components

Restoration Tips:

Completely remove old lubricants and inspect all internal parts for corrosion. Light surface rust can often be cleaned away, but heavily damaged components may require repair or replacement. Always use lubricants designed specifically for spring-powered airguns when reassembling.

4. Excessive Vibration and Spring Twang.

Collectors restoring older airguns often encounter excessive vibration, commonly known as "spring twang." While some vibration is normal, excessive movement can affect both shooting comfort and accuracy.

What to Look For:

>Loud spring resonance

>Harsh firing behaviour

>Increased wear on internal parts

Restoration Tips:

Inspect spring guides, top hats, and washers for wear. A properly fitted spring and guide assembly can significantly reduce vibration while preserving the rifle's original character. Care should be taken not to over-modify historically significant examples.

5. Poor Accuracy.

Even the finest vintage air rifles and pistols can suffer from declining accuracy if neglected. Fortunately, the cause is often straightforward to identify.

What to Look For:

>Inconsistent groupings

>Pellets striking unpredictably

>Difficulty maintaining zero

Restoration Tips:

Begin with a thorough barrel cleaning and inspection. Check that stock screws, sight assemblies, and action screws are secure. Examine the muzzle crown for damage and test a range of pellet types, as many vintage airguns were designed around ammunition that differs from some modern offerings.

Preserving a Piece of Airgun History.

Restoring a vintage spring-powered air rifle or pistol is as much about preservation as it is performance. While replacing worn parts is sometimes necessary, collectors often strive to retain as much originality as possible. A carefully restored airgun not only performs better but also helps preserve an important piece of shooting heritage for future generations.

Whether you're working on a classic break-barrel rifle, an underlever model, or a vintage spring pistol, understanding these common issues is the first step towards a successful restoration.

Air Gun Dating And Claims.

Fri, 03 Jul 2026 11:53:34 GMT

Air Gun Dating and Claims.

Original, Period-Correct, or Restored? The Challenge of Dating Air Gun Parts.

Over the years I have written several articles on Webley air pistols, focusing on dating examples and verifying original parts. More recently, however, I have received a growing number of enquiries relating not only to Webley products but also to other makes and models. The questions are often similar: How can I tell if a part is original? Is this accessory correct for the gun? Can a restoration ever truly be described as original?

These are important questions, and they highlight one of the greatest challenges facing today's collectors and restorers.

Before purchasing any replacement parts, it is worth considering the purpose of the restoration. Is the air pistol or rifle being restored for personal enjoyment, or is it intended for resale? The answer often influences the decisions made along the way.

For many enthusiasts, a restoration is a labour of love. A family heirloom or childhood favourite may hold significant sentimental value, leading an owner to invest in the very best replacement parts available in an effort to recreate the gun exactly as they remember it. However, enthusiasm does not always guarantee accuracy, and identifying the correct part can be more difficult than many realise.

Commercial restorers, on the other hand, often have a different set of priorities. While authenticity remains important, cost and practicality inevitably play a larger role in the decision-making process.

This brings us to one of the most common pitfalls within the collecting community: claims of originality.

Prospective buyers should always approach descriptions such as “ all original,” “exactly as it left the factory,” or “complete with original accessories” with a healthy degree of caution. In reality, the only components that can be confidently authenticated are those carrying factory-applied serial numbers, batch numbers, or other identifiable markings.

Everything else requires varying degrees of interpretation and informed judgement.

A good example comes from my own collection. Some years ago, I acquired a post-war Webley Junior that had suffered extensive damage to its spring guide, courtesy of a previous owner's less-than-sympathetic repair attempts. Rather than rushing into a repair, I put the pistol aside until a suitable replacement could be found.

Fortune eventually smiled when I purchased a large consignment of Webley parts. Among the contents was a spring guide in excellent condition bearing the same batch number as the damaged original. The pistol was subsequently serviced and returned to working order.

After enjoying it for a period, I eventually sold the pistol. Importantly, I informed the buyer exactly what had been done and included the damaged original spring guide with the sale. Whether that information remains with the pistol as ownership changes hands is, of course, another matter entirely.

Stories such as this illustrate why claims of complete originality should always be viewed in context. A replacement part fitted fifty years ago may itself now be considered part of the gun's history. Likewise, a carefully restored air gun may be mechanically superior to an untouched example while no longer being entirely original.

Perhaps the most accurate description for many vintage air guns is not original , but period-correct . The distinction may seem subtle, but for serious collectors it can be significant.

Ultimately, collecting and restoring vintage air guns remains one of the most rewarding aspects of the hobby. The history, engineering, and craftsmanship of these pieces continue to fascinate enthusiasts around the world. As with any collecting field, knowledge is one of the most valuable tools available. Seek advice when needed, research thoroughly before purchasing parts, and never be afraid to ask questions.

After all, today's restoration may well become tomorrow's collector's piece—and the details matter.

A Quick Guide to The Webley MK1

Mon, 02 Feb 2026 12:50:38 GMT

A Quick Guide To The Webley MK1.

Webley MK1 Air Pistol Identification Guide (1924–1964).

The Webley MK1 air pistol is one of the most iconic British air pistols ever produced. Manufactured from 1924 to 1964, the MK1 remained entirely solid steel throughout its production, never transitioning to alloy construction like later Webley models.

This guide provides a quick reference for identifying the main variations of the Webley MK1, focusing on grip styles, barrel changes, trigger adjustments, and production-era features to help collectors and owners accurately identify their pistol.

Serial Numbers and Dating the Webley MK1

As with all Webley air pistols: Pre–World War II MK1 pistols were serial-numbered, Post–World War II MK1 pistols were batch-numbered, For detailed dating information, please refer to my previous article: “A First Guide to Webley Air Pistol Dating.”

Straight-Grip Webley MK1 (1924–1935)

From 1924 to 1935, the Webley MK1 featured what is known as a straight grip. Most straight-grip MK1s used walnut grips, typically fitted with a brass Webley medallion on the left-hand grip.

Key Design Changes During Production

The straight-grip MK1 saw relatively few changes over its production life, the most significant being: The addition of a trigger adjustment screw, Changes to the barrel top catch design.

Trigger Adjustment by Series

Series One and Two: No trigger adjustment, Series Three, Four, and Five Trigger adjustment added, featuring two different cone-head designs.

Barrel Overhang and Piston Access (Straight Grip)

Most straight-grip MK1 pistols had: An overhanging barrel, Rear-only piston access. Sometime prior to serial number 36964, piston access became available from both ends of the cylinder, as documented by Gordon Bruce in reference to the Sixth Series.

Sloped-Grip Webley MK1 (1935–1964)

From 1935 onwards, the MK1 adopted a sloped-grip design and transitioned to Bakelite grips. Bakelite Grip Identification, Pre-war Bakelite grips no Webley logo, Post-war Bakelite grips, Webley logo embossed on both grips. Piston Access Changes, access to the piston was now via the front of the cylinder which required removal of the barrel and spring guide.

Barrel Design and Knurling Changes

1935 onwards: Barrels no longer overhung the cylinder and were cut flush with its end, reportedly for aesthetic reasons. Pre-1939: Smooth outer barrel, 1939–1945: Diamond knurling added for improved grip

1945–1964: Straight knurling used until the end of production.

Important Notes on Dating and Replacement Parts

Collectors are advised not to date a Webley MK1 by removable components such as: Barrels, Grips and any

other easily interchangeable parts. Due to transitional models and widespread owner replacement, this is particularly important for the MK1, which was Webley’s most-produced air pistol.

Final Identification Tips for Collectors

While additional identifiers exist—such as patent markings and factory stamps etc—this guide focuses on the primary model changes most useful to: New Webley collectors and owners seeking to identify an inherited or recently acquired MK1.

Need Help Identifying a Webley MK1?

If you have questions about a specific Webley MK1 air pistol or need clarification on any features, feel free to get in touch. I will endeavour to assist wherever possible.

Webley Hurricane Dating

Thu, 15 Jan 2026 17:43:20 GMT

Webley Hurricane Dating and Series Differences.

Here we will look at some of the differences and the complexity of the Webley Hurricane model, and the changes made over its production run as an alloy air pistol.

To decide which model you have, start with the body only, as there are two distinct body types. The first series, produced from 1977 to 1984, had a triangular-shaped sticker safety with a red dot. From 1984 to 2005, this was changed to a drilled indentation filled with red paint. This is the first step in ascertaining which series you have, as all other components on the Webley Hurricane are easily replaced and have caught many collectors and dealers out.

As previously stated, many parts from both series are interchangeable, which can make sourcing correct replacement parts difficult.

Front shroud, First series models had Hurricane printed only. From 1981 onwards, this was changed to Webley Hurricane.

Rear sight, From 1977 to 1987, the rear sight featured white numbering. After this period, it was changed to a raised design until the end of production.

Barrel housing and front sight, In 1990, the barrel precast housing was reduced from 2.75 inches to 2.187 inches, giving a stockier appearance. In the same year, the front sight blade height was increased.

Original packaging, From 1977 to 1982, pistols were supplied in a large black pistol box with a red flock insert, designed to house all the parts for the pistol. This was later changed to a plain cardboard box with a polystyrene insert.

There were many other subtle changes over the production period of the Hurricane, which in turn also affected the Typhoon and Tempest models, as Webley tried to compete with other manufacturers. However, with this article I have tried to convey the main points simply, rather than deal with every subtle change, such as patents, markings, and company logo changes.

When dating your Webley Hurricane, please refer to my previous article on this subject, as only some export Hurricanes were issued with serial numbers rather than batch numbers.

If you have questions about a specific Webley model or need further clarification, feel free to get in touch—I will endeavour to assist wherever possible.

A First Guide to Webley Air Pistol Dating

Wed, 14 Jan 2026 10:18:56 GMT

Webley Air Pistol Dating.

An Owners/Collector’s Guide to Models, Serial Numbers, and Production History

Accurately dating and verifying Webley Classic air pistols is a key concern for collectors, shooters, and historians. Produced by Webley & Scott in England, these iconic air pistols span pre-war, post-war, and modern production periods, each with distinct identifying features.

This guide explains how to identify Webley air pistol models, understand serial and batch numbering, and avoid common mistakes when assessing originality and age.

Webley Air Pistols: Pre-War vs Post-War Production

Before World War II, Webley air pistols were: Individually serial-numbered, Manufactured with all-steel construction, These early pistols are often easier to date and are highly sought after by collectors due to their craftsmanship and historical significance.

Post–World War II Webley Air Pistols

After the war, production methods changed: Pistols were identified using batch numbers, Each batch is estimated to contain around 5,000 pistols, Construction often combined steel and alloy components. This shift makes precise dating more difficult and requires careful examination.

Why Dating Webley Air Pistols Is Difficult

Accurate dating of Webley air pistols is challenging because no official factory production records are known to exist.

In some cases, pistols may feature a date stamp beneath the left-hand grip, either side of the grip screw, showing the month and year of manufacture. However, collectors should exercise caution, as there are known examples of altered or falsified markings intended to increase value or provenance.

Common Mistakes When Verifying Webley Air Pistols

Replaceable Parts Can Be Misleading

Dating a Webley pistol based on easily replaceable parts—such as:

Barrels

Grips

Sights

—is a common error and has misled many experienced dealers and collectors.

“Original Box” Claims

Claims such as “comes with original box” should be treated carefully. While a box may be period-correct, absolute certainty is rarely possible once a pistol has changed hands multiple times.

Webley Air Pistol Construction Types Explained

Most Webley air pistols fall into one of two construction categories:

Steel body with steel cylinder, Alloy body with steel cylinder.

For clarity throughout this guide, the terms steel and alloy refer only to the pistol body, not internal components.

Chronological List of Webley Classic Air Pistol Models (1924–2005)

Early and Pre-War Models:

1924–1935 — Mark 1 Straight Grip

All steel, serial numbers

1925–1930 — Mark 2 Target Model

All steel, serial numbers

1929–1939 — Junior (Wood/Tin Grips)

All steel, serial numbers

1930–1935 — Senior Straight Grip

All steel, serial numbers

Post-War and Transitional Models:

1935–1964 — Senior Slant Grip

All steel, serial and batch numbers

1935–1964 — Mark 1 Slant Grip

All steel, serial and batch numbers

1946–1973 — Junior Bakelite Slant Grip

All steel, batch numbers

1964–1975 — Premier

All steel, batch numbers

Modern Alloy Models

1973–1976 — Junior Mark 2

Alloy, batch numbers

1975–1977 — Premier Mark 2

Alloy, batch numbers

1977–2005 — Hurricane

Alloy, batch numbers

1977–1982 — Typhoon

Alloy, batch numbers

1979–2005 — Tempest

Alloy, batch numbers

1994–2005 — Nemesis

Alloy, batch numbers

Final Thoughts for Webley Owner/Collectors

Dating and verifying Webley Classic air pistols requires patience, research, and a cautious approach. While absolute certainty is not always possible, understanding production changes, construction methods, and common pitfalls can greatly improve accuracy.

This guide is intended to help collectors make informed decisions and deepen their appreciation of one of Britain’s most iconic air pistol ranges.

If you have questions about a specific Webley model or need further clarification, feel free to get in touch—I will endeavour to assist wherever possible.

angelairparts

Parts in the pipeline.

Parts Due in or yet to be assessed or checked.

﻿

A Beginner's Guide to Home Cold Bluing Air Guns.

Items You'll Need

Step 1 – Prepare the Metal

Step 2 – Degrease Thoroughly

Step 3 – Warm the Metal

Step 4 – Final Clean

Step 5 – Apply the Bluing Solution

Step 6 – Allow the Reaction to Work

Step 7 – Neutralise and Dry

Step 8 – Oil the Finish

Safety Notes

Final Thoughts

Renovating Wooden Components.

A Beginner's Guide to Renovating Wooden Air Rifle and Air Pistol Stocks.

5 Common Problems

5 Common Problems Found in Vintage Spring-Powered Air Rifles and Pistols

Air Gun Dating And Claims.

Air Gun Dating and Claims. ﻿

A Quick Guide to The Webley MK1

A Quick Guide To The Webley MK1.

Webley Hurricane Dating

Webley Hurricane Dating and Series Differences.

A First Guide to Webley Air Pistol Dating

Webley Air Pistol Dating.

Air Gun Dating and Claims.