A First Guide to Webley Air Pistol Dating

Paul Angel • January 14, 2026

Webley Air Pistol Dating.

An Owners/Collector’s Guide to Models, Serial Numbers, and Production History

Accurately dating and verifying Webley Classic air pistols is a key concern for collectors, shooters, and historians. Produced by Webley & Scott in England, these iconic air pistols span pre-war, post-war, and modern production periods, each with distinct identifying features.

This guide explains how to identify Webley air pistol models, understand serial and batch numbering, and avoid common mistakes when assessing originality and age.

Webley Air Pistols: Pre-War vs Post-War Production

Before World War II, Webley air pistols were: Individually serial-numbered, Manufactured with all-steel construction, These early pistols are often easier to date and are highly sought after by collectors due to their craftsmanship and historical significance.

Post–World War II Webley Air Pistols

After the war, production methods changed: Pistols were identified using batch numbers, Each batch is estimated to contain around 5,000 pistols, Construction often combined steel and alloy components. This shift makes precise dating more difficult and requires careful examination.

Why Dating Webley Air Pistols Is Difficult

Accurate dating of Webley air pistols is challenging because no official factory production records are known to exist.

In some cases, pistols may feature a date stamp beneath the left-hand grip, either side of the grip screw, showing the month and year of manufacture. However, collectors should exercise caution, as there are known examples of altered or falsified markings intended to increase value or provenance.

Common Mistakes When Verifying Webley Air Pistols

Replaceable Parts Can Be Misleading

Dating a Webley pistol based on easily replaceable parts—such as:

Barrels

Grips

Sights

—is a common error and has misled many experienced dealers and collectors.

“Original Box” Claims

Claims such as “comes with original box” should be treated carefully. While a box may be period-correct, absolute certainty is rarely possible once a pistol has changed hands multiple times.

Webley Air Pistol Construction Types Explained

Most Webley air pistols fall into one of two construction categories:

Steel body with steel cylinder, Alloy body with steel cylinder.

For clarity throughout this guide, the terms steel and alloy refer only to the pistol body, not internal components.

Chronological List of Webley Classic Air Pistol Models (1924–2005)

Early and Pre-War Models:

1924–1935 — Mark 1 Straight Grip

All steel, serial numbers

1925–1930 — Mark 2 Target Model

All steel, serial numbers

1929–1939 — Junior (Wood/Tin Grips)

All steel, serial numbers

1930–1935 — Senior Straight Grip

All steel, serial numbers

Post-War and Transitional Models:

1935–1964 — Senior Slant Grip

All steel, serial and batch numbers

1935–1964 — Mark 1 Slant Grip

All steel, serial and batch numbers

1946–1973 — Junior Bakelite Slant Grip

All steel, batch numbers

1964–1975 — Premier

All steel, batch numbers

Modern Alloy Models

1973–1976 — Junior Mark 2

Alloy, batch numbers

1975–1977 — Premier Mark 2

Alloy, batch numbers

1977–2005 — Hurricane

Alloy, batch numbers

1977–1982 — Typhoon

Alloy, batch numbers

1979–2005 — Tempest

Alloy, batch numbers

1994–2005 — Nemesis

Alloy, batch numbers

Final Thoughts for Webley Owner/Collectors

Dating and verifying Webley Classic air pistols requires patience, research, and a cautious approach. While absolute certainty is not always possible, understanding production changes, construction methods, and common pitfalls can greatly improve accuracy.

This guide is intended to help collectors make informed decisions and deepen their appreciation of one of Britain’s most iconic air pistol ranges.

If you have questions about a specific Webley model or need further clarification, feel free to get in touch—I will endeavour to assist wherever possible.

Newer Post >

Parts in the pipeline.

By Paul Angel • July 24, 2026

Parts Due in or yet to be assessed or checked.

A Beginner's Guide to Home Cold Bluing Air Guns.

By Paul Angel • July 21, 2026

Cold bluing is a simple and cost-effective way to restore the appearance of worn steel parts on air rifles and air pistols. While it will not be as durable as a professional hot-blued finish, it can produce excellent results when applied carefully and patiently. Items You'll Need Cold bluing solution or gel. Degreaser (acetone works well). Fine wire wool (0000 grade). Clean cloths or paper towels. Nitrile gloves. Rust and blue remover (optional). Air gun or gun oil. Fine abrasive paper (240–1200 grit). Step 1 – Prepare the Metal Remove the existing finish using fine abrasive paper. If the metal has scratches or heavy corrosion, start with around 240-grit paper and gradually work up through finer grades, finishing with 600 to 1200 grit. Sand lengthways along the metal wherever possible. This produces a smoother, more traditional finish and helps avoid visible sanding marks. Ensure all rust, pitting residue, and old bluing have been removed before moving on. Step 2 – Degrease Thoroughly Using acetone and clean paper towels, wipe the bare metal until no dirt, oil, or dark residue remains. Any grease left on the surface can prevent the bluing solution from working properly. Step 3 – Warm the Metal Gently warm the metal using an oven, heat gun, or hair dryer until it feels hot to the touch but not excessively hot. Warming the metal helps the bluing solution react more evenly and can improve the final finish. Step 4 – Final Clean Give the warmed metal one final wipe with acetone to remove any fingerprints, dust, or contamination that may have appeared during handling. Step 5 – Apply the Bluing Solution Pour a small amount of cold bluing solution into a separate clean container. Never dip applicators directly into the original bottle, as contamination can reduce the effectiveness of the product. Using a cotton swab, cotton pad, or clean applicator, apply an even coat over the metal surface. Step 6 – Allow the Reaction to Work Leave the solution on the metal for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically between one and three minutes. A grey or dark residue may appear on the surface. Once the reaction is complete, gently rub the metal with 0000-grade wire wool to smooth the finish. For a deeper colour, several light applications are usually better than one heavy application. Step 7 – Neutralise and Dry Rinse the metal thoroughly with cold water to stop the chemical reaction. Dry the surface completely using clean paper towels or a lint-free cloth. Once dry, lightly buff the metal with 0000-grade wire wool to remove any haze or uneven residue. Step 8 – Oil the Finish When you are satisfied with the colour and appearance, generously coat the metal with air gun or gun oil. Allow the oil to soak into the newly blued surface overnight. The following day, wipe away any excess oil with a clean cloth. This final step helps protect the finish and improves its durability. Safety Notes Cold bluing products contain chemicals that can be harmful if used incorrectly. Always work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Wear nitrile gloves and safety goggles at all times. Avoid skin and eye contact with the solution. Keep products away from children and pets. Protect work surfaces from spills by using a disposable, non-absorbent covering. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions supplied with your chosen bluing product. Final Thoughts Cold bluing is an excellent skill for collectors, restorers, and enthusiasts who want to improve the appearance of vintage air guns. The key to success is preparation. Taking extra time to remove rust, polish the metal, and thoroughly degrease the surface will usually have a greater impact on the final result than the bluing solution itself. Remember, patience produces the best finish.