Webley Hurricane Dating

Paul Angel • January 15, 2026

Webley Hurricane Dating and Series Differences.

Here we will look at some of the differences and the complexity of the Webley Hurricane model, and the changes made over its production run as an alloy air pistol.

To decide which model you have, start with the body only, as there are two distinct body types. The first series, produced from 1977 to 1984, had a triangular-shaped sticker safety with a red dot. From 1984 to 2005, this was changed to a drilled indentation filled with red paint. This is the first step in ascertaining which series you have, as all other components on the Webley Hurricane are easily replaced and have caught many collectors and dealers out.

As previously stated, many parts from both series are interchangeable, which can make sourcing correct replacement parts difficult.

Front shroud, First series models had Hurricane printed only. From 1981 onwards, this was changed to Webley Hurricane.

Rear sight, From 1977 to 1987, the rear sight featured white numbering. After this period, it was changed to a raised design until the end of production.

Barrel housing and front sight, In 1990, the barrel precast housing was reduced from 2.75 inches to 2.187 inches, giving a stockier appearance. In the same year, the front sight blade height was increased.

Original packaging, From 1977 to 1982, pistols were supplied in a large black pistol box with a red flock insert, designed to house all the parts for the pistol. This was later changed to a plain cardboard box with a polystyrene insert.

There were many other subtle changes over the production period of the Hurricane, which in turn also affected the Typhoon and Tempest models, as Webley tried to compete with other manufacturers. However, with this article I have tried to convey the main points simply, rather than deal with every subtle change, such as patents, markings, and company logo changes.

When dating your Webley Hurricane, please refer to my previous article on this subject, as only some export Hurricanes were issued with serial numbers rather than batch numbers.

If you have questions about a specific Webley model or need further clarification, feel free to get in touch—I will endeavour to assist wherever possible.

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Parts in the pipeline.

By Paul Angel • July 24, 2026

Parts Due in or yet to be assessed or checked.

A Beginner's Guide to Home Cold Bluing Air Guns.

By Paul Angel • July 21, 2026

Cold bluing is a simple and cost-effective way to restore the appearance of worn steel parts on air rifles and air pistols. While it will not be as durable as a professional hot-blued finish, it can produce excellent results when applied carefully and patiently. Items You'll Need Cold bluing solution or gel. Degreaser (acetone works well). Fine wire wool (0000 grade). Clean cloths or paper towels. Nitrile gloves. Rust and blue remover (optional). Air gun or gun oil. Fine abrasive paper (240–1200 grit). Step 1 – Prepare the Metal Remove the existing finish using fine abrasive paper. If the metal has scratches or heavy corrosion, start with around 240-grit paper and gradually work up through finer grades, finishing with 600 to 1200 grit. Sand lengthways along the metal wherever possible. This produces a smoother, more traditional finish and helps avoid visible sanding marks. Ensure all rust, pitting residue, and old bluing have been removed before moving on. Step 2 – Degrease Thoroughly Using acetone and clean paper towels, wipe the bare metal until no dirt, oil, or dark residue remains. Any grease left on the surface can prevent the bluing solution from working properly. Step 3 – Warm the Metal Gently warm the metal using an oven, heat gun, or hair dryer until it feels hot to the touch but not excessively hot. Warming the metal helps the bluing solution react more evenly and can improve the final finish. Step 4 – Final Clean Give the warmed metal one final wipe with acetone to remove any fingerprints, dust, or contamination that may have appeared during handling. Step 5 – Apply the Bluing Solution Pour a small amount of cold bluing solution into a separate clean container. Never dip applicators directly into the original bottle, as contamination can reduce the effectiveness of the product. Using a cotton swab, cotton pad, or clean applicator, apply an even coat over the metal surface. Step 6 – Allow the Reaction to Work Leave the solution on the metal for the time recommended by the manufacturer, typically between one and three minutes. A grey or dark residue may appear on the surface. Once the reaction is complete, gently rub the metal with 0000-grade wire wool to smooth the finish. For a deeper colour, several light applications are usually better than one heavy application. Step 7 – Neutralise and Dry Rinse the metal thoroughly with cold water to stop the chemical reaction. Dry the surface completely using clean paper towels or a lint-free cloth. Once dry, lightly buff the metal with 0000-grade wire wool to remove any haze or uneven residue. Step 8 – Oil the Finish When you are satisfied with the colour and appearance, generously coat the metal with air gun or gun oil. Allow the oil to soak into the newly blued surface overnight. The following day, wipe away any excess oil with a clean cloth. This final step helps protect the finish and improves its durability. Safety Notes Cold bluing products contain chemicals that can be harmful if used incorrectly. Always work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Wear nitrile gloves and safety goggles at all times. Avoid skin and eye contact with the solution. Keep products away from children and pets. Protect work surfaces from spills by using a disposable, non-absorbent covering. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions supplied with your chosen bluing product. Final Thoughts Cold bluing is an excellent skill for collectors, restorers, and enthusiasts who want to improve the appearance of vintage air guns. The key to success is preparation. Taking extra time to remove rust, polish the metal, and thoroughly degrease the surface will usually have a greater impact on the final result than the bluing solution itself. Remember, patience produces the best finish.